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Diy Large Rust Hole Repair on your Auto Part 3 (patch)

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20 comments

  1. Robert “Rob” S

    should show the lovely people how to maintain drain holes in the rocks and doors. that's usually the cause of cancer, parking on gravel is bad too

  2. if you would've converted the rust underneath and than did this repair it would've lasted forever

  3. So rather than providing a good weld, you are showing people how to scam others with cars so they buy a piece of junk that won't get through most countries annual check up. How nice of you. Cars, the only area where the scammers get rewarded and the artisan metal workers go bankrupt.

  4. I was going to cut out my cab corners and redo my rockers myself but I watched this vid and it seems to be a better solution for a vehicle that probably wont last for more than 3 years

  5. what a mess dude sorry but
    that's a big mess

  6. Monstrosity Sound Inc.

    Sorry dude nice video but that work is caca it will come back in a few months unless it's to just get rid of the car and a surprise for some other person to fix

  7. Moron

  8. you could have replaced the metal in half the time, and it would have been done right.

  9. would shutting the door while it is still tacky not make it easier to mold?

  10. Wow..I did this (Fiberglass Body Job) to my 1973 Pinto a few decades ago. Wax paper trick could have used.
    Now I have my daughters new to her 1997 Toyota Rav4 with only 163,000 Km. She will get body job same as the Pinto
    for the rockers and rear quarter holes. All of the above is what some folks in the Canuck provinces/Territories can do where salt makes it economically tough to own a vehicle. Rusted vehicles, heaved roads, snow plowing, pot hole maintenance, and home/building heating makes most of Canada a real SOB to live in compared to other places in North America! All that to say that DIY fiberglass vs Pro Metal is totally reasonable as long as it isn't a safety issue. And lots of times the vehicle is a winter beater. Cheers & Thanks for great Vids.

  11. Hints: Think a little more about BINDING the fiberglass to the metal. Use the coarsest grit possible to grind the metal. Grind out & patch a larger area to maximize adhesion & life of patch.
    -Drill some holes to squeeze the premix into, so they become like fiberglass rivets binding the two dissimilar materials together. Some Premix INSIDE the repair area can act as a sandwich with the metal in the center. Use plastic (breadbags) to shape inside wheel area, as wax paper will easily tear. In critical areas, make sure the premixed fiberglass patch is 1/8" – 3/16" thick.
    -Then you will have a repair that is as strong as the original metal. Of course, the rust will continue to happen, but until it continues BEYOND the patched area, reasonable structural integrity will be maintained.
    -try using less hardener to increase working time. Excess hardener will make the finished fiberglass too brittle.
    -not sure spray foam is a good idea, as some suggest, as once filed, cut, or worn from flying sand, will absorb water and rapidly increase rusting. Use of hand shaped closed cell insulating foam-board pieces like the Blue Styrofoam may be better. Perhaps glue them in place with the same premix?
    -Remember folks to shape this material as much as possible while it is in a softer state, as once hardened, is much more work to shape.

  12. Not that I condone this sort of fuckery, but some spray foam would have been a good base to glass over to get the basic shape built up.

  13. I would use some chicken wire to make the rough form. Then some resin soaked fiberglass. Then bondo.

  14. LOL at 28:52 My first reaction was OH SHIT he got himself good.

  15. Leave the pro body work to the pros and leave pro drivers to do the driving. So….most of you should park your damn car as you are not a professional driver. You have no business driving on the road. In all of the years and millions of miles I have driven and the accidents I have witnessed, I have never once seen one due to a lack of structural integrity but only by weight, being overloaded but mostly due to the lack of ability to drive and use common sense. So keep driving your cars and someone will keep putting bondo on their junker. Everybody cuts a stinky terd.

  16. Francesca Pisciotta

    High school kids could do better. I don't care what car it is, if it's a winter beater or not, this repair is DISGUSTING!!! You slapped on body filler like a five-year-old decorates a cake. You talk like you know what you're doing, when in fact you don't know the first thing about body work; the body filler wasn't even mixed properly! There are much better ways to do a fiberglass repair; for one you can use RESIN instead of filler to hold on the fiberglass cloth (like you're supposed to). This will actually make the cloth harden and not just provide a surface for pounds upon pounds of body filler to be smeared on to. I could go on for an hour, and I'm nowhere near an expert when it comes to body work. It's just plain common sense not to slather on filler like that. It's not supposed to drip off, either!

  17. Travis Hofstetter

    i found that outting somthing in the hole before you fiber glassed helped with it (i.e. spray foam) 

  18. Wax paper….neat trick, work smarter, not harder!

  19. Thank you for the warning on the upcoming loud noises. Very thoughtful of you, Sir.

  20. the full mix sorry what exactly are you using for the mix at the start?

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